An investigation of the long term chemical stability and physical performance of PMD-citronellal acetal compared with dibutyl phthalate and BIS(2-ethylhexyl) terephthalate as plasticisers in selected cosmetic formulations
- Authors: Marx, Amor
- Date: 2019
- Subjects: Plastics -- Additives , Chemistry, Technical , Cosmetics
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Doctoral , DTech
- Identifier: http://hdl.handle.net/10948/42574 , vital:36669
- Description: Plasticisers are used by cosmetic manufacturers to improve the film forming abilities of a product and increase flexibility of the film formed on the skin or hair surface, as is desired, for example, in nail lacquers and lip coats. In recent years authorities have banned several plasticisers in cosmetic products (mainly phthalates) since these substances may pose a wide range of health risks and can be harmful to the environment. It is, therefore, necessary to find alternative, safe plasticisers, preferably of natural origin e.g. bio-plasticisers which can replace the toxic phthalates and still impart the same desirable properties to the cosmetic products in which they are used. In this study, the novel bio-plasticiser para-menthane-3,8-diol-citronellal acetal (PMD-citronellal acetal) was selected to compare its stability properties and plasticising behaviour with well-known non-phthalate bis(2-ethylhexyl) terephthalate (DEHT) and the problematic dibutyl phthalate (DBP). The objectives were to determine if the novel bio-plasticiser PMD-citronellal acetal plasticising properties and chemical stability are similar or better than DEHT and DBP within two cosmetic formulations, viz. a nail lacquer and a lip coat formulation, after being incubated at elevated temperature (40 ˚C) over a three month period. The results showed that flexibility for all plasticised formulations remained stable at room temperature (21 ˚C) and elevated temperature (40 ˚C). Adhesion performance of DEHT and PMD-citronellal acetal nail lacquer formulations outperformed DBP nail lacquer formulations. Elevated temperature and storage time had no influence on the organoleptic properties of any plasticised formulation. PMD-citronellal acetal plasticised lip coat and nail lacquer formulations outperformed both DEHT and DBP nail formulations with regard to hardness. Fourier Transform Infrared Spectrometry (FTIR) studies revealed that neat DPB, DEHT and Acetal were chemically stable at room temperature and elevated temperature over a three month incubation period. Furthermore, the three plasticised nail lacquer and lip coat formulations remained chemical stable over the three month incubation period at elevated temperature. Chemical stability of the nail lacquer formulations was further evaluated by means of leaching tests using Solid Phase Extraction [1] and Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography (UPLC) at two temperatures (31 and 50 °C) and three time intervals (24, 48 and 72 hours). No leaching out of the nail lacquer formulation for Acetal and DEHT could be detected. It was observed that trace amounts of DBP leached from the nail lacquer formulation at 50 °C. DBP leaching decreased over time and was found to be statistically significant over the studied period. It can be concluded that PMD-citronellal acetal can be selected as bio-plasticiser which exhibits similar properties to DEHT based on the performance stability and non-leaching criteria, and can be used as an alternative plasticiser to the toxic DBP in cosmetic formulations.
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- Date Issued: 2019
Investigating the effect of various film-forming polymers on the evaporation rate of a volatile component in a cosmetic formulation
- Authors: Barnard, Carla
- Date: 2010
- Subjects: Cosmetic delivery systems , Controlled release preparations , Cosmetics , Polymers , Drugs -- Controlled release
- Language: English
- Type: Thesis , Masters , MSc
- Identifier: vital:10377 , http://hdl.handle.net/10948/1498 , Cosmetic delivery systems , Controlled release preparations , Cosmetics , Polymers , Drugs -- Controlled release
- Description: The topical application of many substances, including drugs, enzymes, moisturizers and fragrances, contributes largely to the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. These components are often volatile in nature and dissipate in a matter of hours. When considering the different types of slow release systems, an overwhelming variety of these systems is available. Each one of the systems is unique in a way, and is designed to perform a particular function, whether it facilitates the controlled release of an active into the body via the skin surface (transdermal delivery) or whether it reduces the rate of loss of an active from the skin surface to the surrounding environment. For the purpose of this study, a previously existing fixative formulation which is believed to reduce the rate of loss of an active component to the environment, through film formation on the skin surface, was investigated. Alternative ingredients or components were incorporated together with the original fixative formulation ingredients into an experimental design which investigates the effect of each group of the components present. 18 formulations with various concentrations of the components within the groups and specified upper and lower limits for each component were formulated. The fixative properties of the formulations were analysed through the incorporation of a fixed amount of a simple fragrance molecule, 4- methoxybenzaldehyde, into each formulation and evaporation studies were conducted in an environmental room at 28±1° C over a period of 5 hours followed by gas chromatography analysis and finally data analyses using statistical methods. The most efficient fixative formulation was established using regression analysis. The fragrance compound in this formulation was found to evaporate at a rate of 0.47 g/L per hour. The least efficient fixative formulation lead to the loss of 0.78 g/L of the fragrance component per hour. From the calculated fragrance concentrations, the rate constant for each individual fixative formulation could be calculated and response surface 8 modelling by backward regression was used in order to determine how each component contributes to the rate of loss of the fragrance compound. Since the sum of the original ingredient and its alternative was constant, each of the original ingredients was coupled directly to its alternative and no conclusion could be made about the contribution of individual components. By increasing the concentration of Hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) 100K and its alternative HPC 140K, while keeping the effects of the other components constant, a decrease in the rate of fragrance loss was observed. The same conclusion could be made when increasing the concentrations of PEG-12 Dimethicone and its alternative cetyl dimethicone (decreases the evaporation rate). An interaction took place between HPC 100K and PEG-12 dimethicone and their alternatives. The negative effect was, however, not as strong as the combined positive effect on the rate of fragrance loss of the individual components HPC and PEG-12 dimethicone. Evidence suggested that the removal of the components polyvinylpyrrolidone and its alternative, polyurethane-32 (Baycusan® C1003), would improve the effectiveness of the fixative formulation in terms of its slow release properties. A confirmation experiment established that the exclusion of these components from the fixative formulation does improve the “slow release” properties thereof. A larger, more intricate design is required to investigate the effect of each one of the individual components and where the sum of the components (original and its alternative) is not constant.
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- Date Issued: 2010